![]() As long as you have a drill, the biggest investment is the actual rivet nut tool. However, there are also zinc-plated carbon steel options that might work even better with a chromoly frame.įortunately, there aren’t too many things you need to make this happen, aside from a standard power drill and a few odds and ends. After a bit of research, I chose to use stainless steel rivet nuts as they won’t corrode when in contact with Chromoly steel like aluminum inserts would. Rivnuts come in several types of metal as well. To match the threading of a standard bottle boss, you need the M5 x 0.80 size rivnuts. “Rivnuts,” also known as rivet nuts or threaded rivet inserts, come in all shapes and sizes. ![]() Alternatively, look into have a frame builder braze on threaded water bottle bosses, or there are many other ways to mount bags and cages-stay tuned for a full list. In the end, it’s much cheaper than buying a new fork. Unless I was expecting to haul an extremely heavy load, or to encounter massive drops and jumps, I personally wouldn’t hesitate to do this with any production steel MTB frame. That said, steel MTB forks/frames are built to carry a lot of weight, and to withstand very rugged circumstances. So, if you are interested in drilling holes in a perfectly good steel frame, here’s how it went and what we used to make it happen.īefore we go on, are you sure you want to drill holes in your frame? Be aware that rivnuts require rather larges holes (~7mm) and some folks suggest that they might weaken the frame. it’s more about how I did it and what I’d do differently if I were to do it again. Now that we have another related post in the works, I thought I’d finally dig up my notes and photos to share what I learned. One nut to fit all to paraphrase that thingy in The Ring.The rivnut on the middle-right is partially compressed next to others left uncompressed. The small footprint means you can have a bunch of different sizes that work with different shaft sizes regardless of thread.įor example a 1/4" flange nut drilled to 1/4" works perfectly for UNC, UNF, Whitworth & M6 Metric. I drill out the flange nut and use a washer under the head of the pulling bolt/capscrew along with some lubrication. The flange also makes the nut easy to hold in a lathe while turning the locating rebate. You can use a standard nut but they wear out fast.Ī flange nut has an advantage in that the flange ensures that the crimping load is spread over the whole of the Riv-Nut outer surface, most are of a medium-high Carbon steel hardened and tempered for long life and have larger across the flats measurements than the bolt/Hex-head Capscrew I use with them. I have commercial tools for installation including pneumatic ones but have found that for small numbers a modified flat flange nut is the best. There are also Quick-studs which are essentially a male fastener that a nut can be used on. They are intended to be a captive female fastener in one piece of material so that another piece of material can be joined using a screw or bolt. ![]() I would like to point out that Riv-Nuts are NOT intended for joining two or more pieces of material.
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